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  • Engine Paint Color, opinions needed

    I was talking with Mark at Griots garage before the white elephant event and told him how my car had died last month. It was a simple coupler that broke. He recommended I try Evens water less coolant. From coolant shooting all over the place my engine bay is a mess and there is some surface rust now on my engine. I have decided to go with the Evens coolant and while I'm at it replace the cooling and heating system.

    Since I will have more room will the radiator and hoses gone I thought I would also touch up the engine with new paint. The engine is an MPI and is currently black. While shopping for new paint I found some gunmetal grey paint.

    Need opinions on if I should go with the black that it already is or should I mix it up and go with a gunmetal grey?

    To paint a picture of what the engine will look like with new parts:
    blue valve cover, new silicone blue hoses and high performance aluminum radiator. Also purchased some stainless steal brackets and engine breather.

    After having the twins, I have no time to work on mini. Right now I'm in Japan with wife and the kids and have been ordering parts for what I want to get done. I'll be returning with out the kids and wife so will have 3 weeks to complete what I have planned before I fly back and pick them up.

    Also taking on headliner replacement during this time.

  • #2
    Dupli Color sells an engine paint (heat and oil resistant) with ceramics added, in a semi-gloss black that is pretty good. That's the color that I am going with on my engine.

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    • #3
      I have also used Dupli Color "ceramic" paints with good effect.

      Headliner replacement requires that the windows be removed on any Mk 3 or later car. Not the case with a Mk 1 or Mk 2 though.

      http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk/our-blog...is-mk3-to-mk7/

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Andrew.Bertschi View Post
        I have also used Dupli Color "ceramic" paints with good effect.

        Headliner replacement requires that the windows be removed on any Mk 3 or later car. Not the case with a Mk 1 or Mk 2 though.

        http://www.newtoncomm.co.uk/our-blog...is-mk3-to-mk7/
        I will look into the paint, thank you for the recommendations. The advantage I think of the grey is that I can better see any oil leaks. Black can also help to hide them.

        The headliner is something I have not been looking forward to as I have heard it requires all the windows to be removed. I purchased new rubber for all the windows. Excited to finish the last of the dynomat and dynaliner when I remove the headliner. Will post pictures when I get started.

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        • #5
          If you haven't entirely commited to the waterless coolant, you might want to have a look at the thread from last July on mk1-forum.net

          Kelley
          If you can afford the car, you can afford the manual...

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          • #6
            A coupla things.

            Drex, your car didn't spray coolant on your engine because your coolant wasn't doing its job. The connector broke because the plastic couldn't handle the heat-and-cool cycles every engine goes through. I know I'VE been tempted to use nylon or other plastic connectors -- because they're readily available -- but that stuff is designed for irrigation and really isn't up to the rigors of hi-temp auto use. Cooling system connectors should be copper or stainless or hi-temp rated plastics. Talk to me at a club meeting if you want to find out how you determine what materials can handle cooling-system temps.

            I've done a little research into the Evans product and I'm not convinced it's a cure-all. I have a hot-running Mini, but I'm afraid the Evans waterless will make it run even hotter; the benefit is that the coolant won't ever boil -- and that's not a benefit to my way of thinking (which, admittedly, is suspect). Jay Leno uses the stuff to lessen the corrosive effects of hot water. I don't have a Duesenberg, so I'm not quite so concerned.

            If you're repainting your block, I think you should use the color you like. I went with a MOWOG green and I now wish I'd used a black.

            Dan
            Dan

            "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." -- George Harrison

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            • #7
              Thank you everyone for you input. I wasn't using Evans as a fix I just liked the concept and I try to keep my mini as clean as possible and thought more that I would get less rust or build up with the stuff. Now I have gone a little over board with my small fix. Will post in another topic as I am pretty deep into things.

              Any idea where I can get a stainless steal or copper coupler for the mini? I found a copper one for plumbing but it seems to have a smaller inner diameter than the plastic one. I haven't been able to attend a meeting or event since white elephant. Last meeting I was in Japan and I am returning again on the 15th so will miss this meeting as well.
              Last edited by Drex; 03-06-2015, 08:13 PM. Reason: adding info

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              • #8
                For simple hose-to-hose connections, a two-inch section of 1/2-inch OD copper tubing and hose clamps will work just fine.



                For other situations, you can find connectors like the barbed stainless three-way above at sites such as McMaster-Carr. I think it's www.mcmaster.com. You'll find just about any hardware you need, and MC usually gives you the full specs of the material, be it brass, stainless steel or nylon. Because they carry so much stuff, the hardest part about using 'em is knowing what to search for.

                Dan
                Dan

                "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." -- George Harrison

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                • #9
                  Thank you for the info!

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