Turn signals out

[Sculler]

My turn signals stopped working, but the 4-ways flashers still work. I found a corroded flasher unit on the firewall, no difference when I replaced it. Some research has indicated either there is another flasher unit somewhere under the dash (which I can't find) or there is an issue with the hazard rocker switch through which the turn signals are wired. I just replaced the turn signal stalk and all the other functions on it work (horn & headlight dim switch). The only light that is out is the front right which needs a whole new assembly as the current one fell apart when I removed the lamp to replace it.

Anyone have any ideas where I should look for the fault. Apparently to access the hazard switch, I need to remove the heater. I'm currently trying to figure that out.

Tim

[mascher]

It would help to know the year of the car since there were some big changes over the years of manufacture.

I had the same thing happen on a '73 Canadian Mini. In this case when the 4-way flasher is switched 'off' it switches 'on' the power to the turn signals. The internal contacts in the switch for the turn signal power were corroded. I had to disassemble it and clean it up to get things working again. The flasher was corroded too but it wasn't the problem.

If you think this might be the problem I have a lot of experience rebuilding these switches so I'd be happy to help you with it.

Kelley

[Sculler]

It is an 83 Austin. It was rebuilt from bare metal, so I don't know how stock the wiring is. The fuse boxes were all redone it appears.

Are you referring to the hazard switch or the stalk switch? The stalk switch is fresh out of the box, but I have heard that the contacts on the hazard switch can get corroded and cause this problem. I just trying to figure out how to get behind the panel to the wires without taking out the heater. That seems a bit complicated. I might have to remove the radio I just installed.

Tim

[Sculler]

OK, I got the hazard switch out, opened it up and had to try and figure out how all the copper pieces go back together after the spring popped. The contact points inside didn't seem to be very corroded, but cleaned them anyway. When I tested for continuity, I couldn't find any flow through any of the pins. I'm not sure which pins power what. It seems one set should allow power through for the turn signals since they should work with the switch off. I heard about a test where you use a wire to connect the lower 2 contacts on the female plug in the car and the turn signals should work (if the fault is with the hazard switch).

I'm not sure what the blade connections are for on the side. I didn't check those for continuity.

Tim

[Sculler]

Don't ask me how, but now the turn signals work. I'm not sure if it was the steel wool to the contacts inside, the reassemble job, or just the reconnection. I figured out the power and ground connections, but never could find any continuity between any of the connection pins.

I'll chalk this up as another of life's mysteries and hope it never happens again. Plus I saved $40 by not having to buy a replacement switch.

Tim