MK II subframe mounting

[Canine]

Chuck

I'm getting ready to test fit things on the race car, but the MK II subframe looks like it just mounts directly to the floor pan? I have the four bolts that mount the cone towers to the body (any advice there) Are there spacers between the body and subframe? since it's a race car I was going to use either aluminum or PTFE plastic.

your thoughts?

Thanks

Greg

[Cheleker]

Over 70% of the Minis produced used a front subframe bolted directly to the body.
A spacer was used between the top of the tower and the bulkhead. It was solid metal
If you are fitting a dry, MK II subframe into a later body ("single bolt" body), you many run into some fitment problems. It's not something I've tried.

[mascher]

I think all of the original parts are available. The bolts and upper lock tabs are sold by Somerford Mini Limited (search term "Subframe"). I couldn't find the spacers on Somerford's site although I suspect they have them. Mini Spares Centre has the spacers on their site.

If you don't want to order from "overseas" then the domestic suppliers should be able to obtain the parts for you. You can use the UK online catalogs for part numbers.

Hope that helps,

Kelley

[Canine]

Thank you!

Thank you for the help.

Mk II subframe to MK II body, all the holes align I am just concerned with the lack of force distribution on the body and worry about metal fatigue in this area over time.

If I mount directly I'll use washers, if there are spacers I'll use those as well.

Any links to stock mounts, photos? diagram?

I have the Haynes manual but it is very vague for the early cars.

Greg

[Cheleker]

Here's one of many links about subframes and mounting for early cars. http://www.minimania.com/catPage/12-...---Front--Rear

[mascher]

That link shows the early attachments on the left and the later, post '76, attachments on the right (mostly).

Metal fatigue in the mountings shouldn't be too much of a concern on a race car. Most tracks are pretty smooth so the mountings don't get torqued too badly. I've seen 30 to 40 year-old cars with no problems that were driven on the street daily. Just be sure you get everything tight. The last thing you want is the subframe moving around, which might make you think twice about the wisdom of the later rubber mounted subframes.

Kelley