Clutch hydraulics from pedal to slave cyl.

[Canine]

I am in the midst of replacing all of my clutch hydraulics. New master cyl, new slave cyl, and new hoses. There are a few tricks I have picked up along the way.

1. use the 1/2 inch end of a GM distributor tool to loosen the rear nut buried under the master cylinder reservoir.

2. Have various grabbers, magnets, bore scopes, surgical lamps, robotic chimps or trained mice to retrieve hardware dropped into very small dark holes designed to swallow fasteners and send them to where dryers send unmated socks.

3. There is a one piece braided hydraulic line you can get to replace the two piece stock version, I am considering converting to this. Less connections mean less leaks easier repair, more reliability. Plus it's a pain in the ass to loosen the metal hydraulic line. There may be opinions on this, I welcome them, please any input is appreciated.

4. There is a split cotter pin that holds a clevis pin to the clutch pedal and the master cyl. replace this with an easy to remove (and install) spring hitch pin.

5. Silicon dot 5 fluid? I don't know? what are the opinions on this does it lengthen the lifetime of the hoses? or hydraulic internals? since I am replacing everything is it a good idea?

Thanks for your input!

Greg Cheers

[Cheleker]

Step one when removing the clutch pedal to master cylinder clevis pin: remove seat!

There are three clevis pins in the clutch system. Replace all three...and you can use hitch pins for all of them

Hitch pin for pedal to master: get the right size. One that is too long has a chance of pushing itself out if it rotates so that the points are down. Not a good thing.

[Canine]

Thank you thank you!
I'll grind the hitch pins down a bit so they're not too long.

any thoughts on Dot 5?

Greg